From sheer dewy to full coverage, two celebrity make-up experts break down five foundation techniques
Whether it was the recently concluded Coachella music festival or the high-profile wedding of media personality Sofia Richie, going easy on make-up is turning out to be a big theme this summer season. Think stealth wealth but in beauty. And to achieve that, you need a strong foundation base.
You can create a foundation base that matches a relaxed casual vibe, a full coverage look for a wedding, or a no-make-up make-up look for a cute date night.
“Perfectly nourished, healthy skin requires much less foundation and less time to complete your look. So, regardless of the final look, I always start by preparing the skin. Make sure that it is perfectly clean, then use a moisturiser and an SPF cream. Every product needs to suit the skin type,” says Mumbai-based celebrity hair and make-up artist Maniasha, who uses just one name. Acne, redness and pigmentation are just a few of the issues that could arise from using products unsuited to your skin type. Moreover, you need to use the right products to get the best finish.
For the perfect foundation, people also have different preferences for tools. Some prefer flat brushes, others, blenders, or even their fingers. “I love kabuki brushes to finish which can do the work of a sponge if required or just keep it natural,” says Mumbai-based celebrity hair and make-up artist Saher Gandhi.
The artists suggest five base options.
Natural
For natural-looking coverage, Gandhi recommends starting off with a moisturiser suited to your skin and finishing with an under-eye cream. “Use a matte primer sparingly on the T-zone to avoid oiliness. Apply a little liquid highlighter—I like Charlotte Tilbury’s Wonderglow—on the high points such as the cheekbones. Dot, blend and apply liquid foundation all over the face for light, even coverage,” says Gandhi. Use powder only where it gets oily, around the mouth or corners of the nose.
No foundation base
This style is just what it says. “Post-prep, use an oil control primer on the T-zone and use a concealer just to cover up blemishes and dark circles. Blend well so it disappears into the skin and there are no harsh lines,” says Gandhi. You don’t always need to paint over your face.
Sheer dewy coverage
“This look is mainly about the formula. The foundation is much thinner and the moisturiser for the prep should be richer, then the sunscreen and a light, light, light foundation. Use highlighter only on the high points,” says Maniasha.
Use a moisturiser with a slightly heavier texture—Embryolisse is a make-up artist’s favourite—and apply liberally. This will give dewiness to the skin and settle uneven patches. “Use an illuminating primer on the cheekbones, going slightly on to the cheeks and on the temples. Follow up with an oil control primer on the T-zone and chin. Use a sheer liquid foundation formula, just a pump will do, and blend it evenly on to the skin,” says Gandhi. Powder lightly only on the corners of the nose and under the eyes.
Full coverage
“For full coverage, you need a foundation with a thicker formula,” says Maniasha. If you have any redness or an uneven skin tone, colour-correct and use a concealer. “I like to first apply the foundation with a flat brush to even it out and for finishing touches, I sometimes use a blender to make it perfect,” says Maniasha. A full-coverage base can wash out your skin, so you must add a bit of colour to your cheeks and lips.
Full coverage no-make-up make-up look
“To make a full coverage look more natural, after working with the foundation, I add mascara to the eyes and by the roots of mascara I use a little bit of brown to add more depth. The eyebrows have to be in perfect shape for this look, lips slightly pigmented. Everything should be very natural, even though we have full coverage,” says Maniasha. You can do a gentle contour and add a little bit of freshness on the cheeks with blush.
